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FUZZY GALORE |
We love our Fuzzy tote bag,
but sometimes a person needs a flap for
carrying more private or elusive stuff,
and sometimes a smaller bag is more in keeping with the circumstances.
I thought of a modified Irish creel shape, with subtle shaping to keep
weight close to the body, and came up with this hybrid that's about early-Chanel size.
Also, my mind's been on buttons for a while,
and this seemed perfect for this great pair of vintage buttons that came
from a coat my grandmother Genevieve wore in the 50s.
So here is the final product, which in our opinion is totally Jackie...
Beginners.
Unfulled size after crocheting: 10"x23", bag handle 36".
Finished size after fulling: 8"x14", handle 26".
Working pattern sc with wool and eyelash together, 8 st/4 inches(10cm).
US: Chain st(ch). Slip st (sl st). Single crochet (sc).
Britain: Chain st(ch). Single crochet (sl st). Double crochet (sc).
You will be working most of the body holding 2 yarns together. The edges and handles will be worked with wool only. Nothing about this needs to be very exact, since the degree of fulling will have a lot more to do with the final size than any gauge measurement.
Back: You will make a long rectangle that will wrap around to
become the flap, and round those corners to end.
Ch 25 to start.
Following rows: * Turn, ch1, 25sc * till the total length is 15".
Then *turn, ch1, decrease 1, sc across, decrease 1* for 4 rows,
shaping rounded corners.
Break off yarn and slip through to end.
Front: This is a shorter rectangle, but the start of it
will have shaping to give depth to the bag.
Ch 25 to start.
Row 1: turn, ch1, 2sc into same ch, 23 sc, 2sc into same (final) ch.
Row 2: turn, ch1, sc, 2sc into same sc below, 23 sc, 2sc into same sc below, sc.
Row 3: turn, ch1, 2sc, 2sc into same sc below, 23 sc, 2sc into same sc below, 2sc.
Following rows: * Turn, ch1, 31sc * till the total length is 10".
Break off yarn and slip through to end.
Put front and back together so bottoms align. Make sure sides are lined up so the front reaches the same spot on both side of the back. Pin if you want, maybe using safety pins so you don't lose them or stick yourself. Using only Iceland (no Fizz), slip stitch across top edge of front to trim. Without breaking yarn, continue by slip-stitching front and back together all around the sides and bottom. You should be forming a visible contrasting chain stitch on the outside of the bag. When you're back to your starting point, continue slip-stitching trim around top flap edge. For this, you will need to be looking carefully and chaining in the air instead of slip-stitching for several stitches as you round the corners, checking that you're forming buttonholes big enough for the planned buttons. You can break off yarn at this point, but it's neater not to.
With only a strand of Iceland (no Fizz), slip stitch to attach to top of side seam (if you've broken yarn when you were assembling). ch till you have a 36" chain, then slip stitch to other side. This will give you a handle that's short enough to hold in the hand, but can be slipped over the shoulder and fits under the arm in a pinch. Slip stitch once to edge of bag, to firmly anchor the row, then sc across to the other side and slip stitch again. Repeat for a total of 3 rows, then break off yarn and slip through to end.
Note that while you can with relative impunity allow the initial chain to twist as it wants and just sc it into submission on the next round, it looks better not to. Moreover, we find that a Moebius strap stays on better, so you might notice that in this case we started the strap toward the back of one side and ended it toward the front of the other side, and gave the chain one 180o turn. By keeping to this pattern we have a discreet twist that makes a more functional bag.
Finish bag neatly, using a yarn needle to work in all stray ends before you do anything else. If your buttons can be sewed with yarn, it's a good idea to sew them on at this point, and turn the bag inside out for fulling to protect them - the anchoring yarn will be fulled, and stronger in the end.
Using your favorite fulling method, put bag in a suitable container and full till approximately finished size above, and texture is much firmer than the original. You will always need hot water, soap (NOT detergent), and prolonged agitation.
My original bag was done by desultory washing in a bucket, followed by real fulling in a dryer adjusted to 'delicate' (ie low heat, otherwise your Fizz might melt). The bag was still damp after a single cycle, but I thought fulling was sufficient and finished by air-drying only. If you need to sew your buttons on with thread, you can do so now.
First published: 15 jun 04
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